How many different countries have you skied in? For me, it has been incredibly helpful to live a short flight from mainland Europe, where the Alps, Pyrenees, and more are readily accessible—meaning I can explore new resorts every season. My long-term goal is to live within an hour’s drive of ski slopes (and also an hour from the ocean), but for now I will have to make do with short-haul flights. Since moving to Europe, I’ve been able to add Italy and Spain to my list of countries I’ve skied in.
This winter, the snowfall in Europe has been epic. In fact, some resorts are still open with excellent coverage (even in May!). Of course, spring skiing can be a bit of a crap shoot. With warm temperatures, there can be limited snow coverage and/or icy conditions if it drops below freezing overnight. The sunny skies may make you overheat in your warm gear, but you can also enjoy après-ski outside on patio tables.
My spring skiing trip this year came together when Baqueira-Beret offered me complimentary ski passes and equipment hire if I came over to visit*. While I love an affordable long weekend of skiing, it can be challenging to manage the budget when traveling on your own rather than having friends to split petrol and hotel costs with. My flights to Toulouse were £100 (no checked bags, just a 10kg carry-on) and the car hire was £140 after I added snow socks. My hotel was a casa in the mountains about a 45-minute drive from Baqueira-Beret. It was £100 for three nights for a single room with an en-suite bathroom and breakfast. The beginning and end of the ski season usually have discounted rates on accommodation and lift passes because snow conditions can be unpredictable.
If you followed my Instagram stories while I was in Spain, you’ll know about my mishaps during the trip, including a mix-up at the car hire counter, missing an exit due to heavy traffic, windy one-way mountain roads, and my inability to speak another language. These little events didn’t detract from my experience on two skis, though.
On my first day, I ate breakfast at 8am and headed out to the mountain shortly after. I took my time and accepted I wouldn’t be getting fresh tracks. About 45 minutes later, I parked in an underground lot and headed to the rental counter. The staff were super helpful in getting me kitted out with boots, skis, poles, and a helmet. They even gave me tips on which slopes to start with (I prefer blue runs to warm up, then move on to reds). By 11am, I was on the gondola and ready to explore. Even though it was Saturday, the wide slopes weren’t crowded at all. Lift lines occasionally had a short wait, which meant I could quickly make my way across the mountain.
My lunch at one of the resort’s lodges—a counter-service meal of a grilled cheese sandwich, French fries, and a Diet Coke—was simple but satisfying (most of my meals this trip were cheese, ham, and bread). After lunch, I headed back out, but the winds started to pick up. The day had already been overcast, and the stronger winds created whiteout conditions. In Italy and Spain, trail edges (likely due to the lack of trees) are marked only by thin poles every 10–15 meters. I had to stop several times because I didn’t know the resort well enough to stay on track. I almost asked a group of snowboarders if I could follow them, as I was starting to feel uneasy. Luckily, the conditions improved—probably just minutes later, though it felt much longer—and I was able to make my way back to the car.
The next day, the storm continued, bringing strong winds but also fresh overnight snowfall. The resort was actually closed when I arrived around 10am, but people seemed to be in good spirits because of the new snow. The tourism board had arranged lunch for 12:30pm, so I decided to wait for the slopes to open rather than visit a local museum. As I did in Avoriaz, I rented a locker to store my gear and passed the time reading on my Kindle.
Finally, at 11:30am, the resort opened. Believe it or not, I managed to find freshly groomed trails and get some fresh tracks in before lunch.
Lunch at Cinco Jotas was amazing. As soon as I sat down, I was served olives and toasted tomato bread (similar to bruschetta). The host explained I’d be having a tasting menu to highlight the restaurant’s offerings. After that, the courses kept coming: a huge plate of jamón, tuna salad, croquettes, potato omelette with ham shavings, and chocolate cake. I limited myself to two glasses of wine since I had to drive back, but I could easily have stayed all afternoon admiring the view. Instead, I cut a few courses short to get back on the slopes before it got too dark for the drive home. The late afternoon brought more great skiing—despite the wind, the sun came out and kept things warm.
On my last day of skiing, I was also flying home that evening so had to get out the door and to the mountain ASAP. My host kindly offered to make breakfast at 7am instead of 8am after I used Google Translate to write her a note explaining my early departure. I had about three and a half hours to squeeze in my final runs of the season—and this was the day that made spring skiing worth it. There was fresh snow, less wind, and more sunshine. I even found free parking, which was ideal since I wasn’t staying long.
With the goal of reaching the far side of the mountain, I worked my way across from the main gondola. Being a Monday, the slopes were even quieter than over the weekend. On Tuc de Costarjàs mountain, I took a T-bar to the top, where powder fields explained the higher proportion of snowboarders compared to the rest of the resort. I tried venturing into the powder and fell so hard both skis came off—lesson learned! Stick to groomed trails.
Overall, Baqueira-Beret offers 173km of wide trails across 127 runs, affordable pricing, and relatively few crowds. This may be because it’s harder to access—there are no direct trains or buses and limited inexpensive transfers. As a result, it feels more like a local favourite than a major commercial resort. The language barrier was occasionally challenging, and I wish I’d practiced my Spanish beforehand. Google translate was essential. It has an old-school feel, with staff still scanning passes in the lift line and no chairlift bubbles for protection. Food and drinks are very reasonably priced compared to other ski resorts I have been to. In addition, they have Baby Baqueira, a full childcare program for children aged six months to six years. Of course, there are fees associated with the care, but you seem to get a lot for your money as you know your child is having fun while you get to enjoy the trails.
Here are some reasons to consider Baqueira-Beret as your next ski destination:
1) Very reliable snow for southern Europe
Unlike many southern resorts, Baqueira-Beret benefits from an Atlantic-facing position, bringing consistent snowfall and good conditions all season. With a base elevation of 1500m and a peak of 2656m, I didn’t feel too out of breath as I walked around or alighted from the chair lift.
- Snow quality is often comparable to Alpine resorts
- Long season with stable coverage
- Extra sunshine and slightly longer daylight than the Alps
This is a big deal if you’re flying from London and want to feel confident you will have fab ski conditions on your holiday.
2) Big, varied terrain without Alpine crowds
It’s the largest ski resort in Spain, with around 170km of pistes across multiple sectors. I was able to explore seven of the nine peaks during my time there.
- Wide mix of terrain: beginner slopes → steep couloirs → off-piste bowls
- Long, open cruising runs with hardly anyone on them
- Less crowded than the Alps
You get the scale of a major resort without the lift queues common in places like the Three Valleys.
3) A “hidden gem” feel (with royal approval)
Did you know Baqueira-Beret is where the Spanish royal family goes to ski? This gives it an exclusive reputation in Spain, though it remains under the radar internationally. A few people even asked why I chose Baqueira-Beret over more famous resorts nearby. I was looking for something new, some place not many of my friends had been before. I’d argue it’s less dominated by British tour groups than French or Swiss resorts—you’ll mostly hear Spanish in gondolas and on chairlifts.
From London, it feels like discovering something many UK skiers overlook which was one of the things that appealed to me.
4) Unique Spanish culture and food
This is where Baqueira-Beret really stands out:
- Tapas, Rioja, and Spanish mountain cuisine. Yum!
- A blend of Spanish and French Pyrenean culture
- Traditional villages with Romanesque architecture (like Vilamòs, where I stayed)
As mentioned, my lunch at Cinco Jotas was incredible. With a bigger budget—and without needing to drive myself around—I would have explored more of the local food and wine scene. I’d also have visited the Museum of the Val d’Aran and Musèu dera Nhèu in Unha, which explores snow and its role in local culture. I need to return for a few more days to fully immerse myself in the culture.
It’s a ski trip that doubles as a food and cultural experience. If you are a foodie who loves to ski, this is the place for you!
5) Better value than the Alps
To be able to enjoy my third ski trip of the season, I can to keep it relatively inexpensive. Even adding lift passes and equipment hire, a three-day ski trip (four days including travel) would still cost less than many Alpine ski report options.
- Accommodation and food are generally cheaper in this region
- Less premium pricing for lifts and dining
- Great value for the size of the terrain
From London, even with transfers, it can be significantly cheaper than France or Switzerland. Do keep in mind that your need to fly into Toulouse or Barcelona first, then drive two to three hours in a car to arrive to the resort or a nearby town. This makes the door-to-door journey a less straightforward than flying into Geneva for the Alps.
The bottom line
Baqueira-Beret stands out because it combines:
- Reliable snow and a large ski area
- Fewer crowds
- A distinct Spanish vibe (food, culture, atmosphere)
- Better value pricing
It’s ideal if you want something different from the usual UK ski circuit—without sacrificing quality. Do you think you will give Baqueira-Beret a try next season?
Thank you to Baquiera-Beret for the complimentary equipment rental, ski passes and lunch. All opinions are honest and own.